Have Passport, will travel.

Ao I feel a bit more relaxed now, I have passport, monwey and have met some amazing new friends just from chatting with people at the guesthouse. So where was I? Ah, the Gobi.
As you can tell from my last post the Gobi is the most amazing place. (By the way, beautiful and amazing are words I'll be using a lot to describe this country...the English lexicon doesn't have enough wods really to describe this place.)
The two local Nadaams were both in Gobi and after National Nadaam it was interesting to see the smaller ones. Sat in the stadium you never got see things close up but ant the locals you could really walk around and watch the wrestling. For me it was good to have seen both, although the local ones seemed slightly comic. I should laugh, the wrestling has a real skill of it own and the egal dance has a cultural significance but it is funny to watch up close. But it was also wonderful.
The towns, however, were not. They were built during the Communist period when they were trying out c0ollectivisation and are, therefore, functional, squat and ugly. I found the towns really depressing. If you imagine a western frontier town, you know the type that have seen better days and have tumble weed blowing through them that's pretty much what the Aimag (provincial capital) towns were like. I always felt very depressed entering a town and I think it is because they were designed for function rather than beauty. There is nothing ediffying about these places. However we did stop in one (Dungov I think) and had the most fabulous meal of Horshaw (Mongolian mutton pancakes) provided for us by a local family. I have loved the food here and mutton has proved to be a suprisingly delicious meat. Goat cooked with hot rocks was too fatty and rich for my pallette but it was delicious.
So the next thing I rember is Tsetsleg and White Lake. Hmm, that proved to be an interesting experience for many reasons, not all of them great (But I'll get to than in a minute!)
Again Tsetsleg was not a beautiful place but Fairfields was. After walking around the town and visiting the container market we went to Fairfeilds which sold English food and drink!!! :D by this time I was just gasping for a cup of proper coffee and some trad home cooking so Fairfields was a jewel in a barren desert. I had my flat white coffee, which I always drink at home, which was a lovely reminder of home and had a burger. Then we picked up Ganzo.
Ganzo was a lovely Mongolian guy who had been in America and spoke very good English. There qwere some people who were on a shorter tour and he had been hired (blind I might add) to escort them back to UB. However it soon became apparent that he had a drinking problem! It's not uncommon to find alcoholics in Mongolia, it is a legacy of the Comunist period. Mongolian Vodka is made from distiling mares milk and is not as strong as Russian Vodka, however when the Russians came they brought their vodka and things got a tad out of control. The Mongolian government is now trying to promote beer instead of Vodka as it has a lower alcohol content but it is a newish program and the results have yet to been seen (or felt).
Anyway, back to Ganzo. Not only was he a drinker he decided he didn't like the staff and they weren't overly kean on him! SO it became a word of words. Sadly he decided to bad mouth the drivers to me almost all the way to White lake, down the Horg volcano (More of which I will write later) and late into the evening. I felt ver conflicted but I stuck up for my friends (Because after 2 weeks they were more that drivers they were friends).
It was decided that Ganzo could share my tent that night which I had no problem with. We sat by the fire, drank, had a laugh and retired to bed. Anyonewho knows me will tell you however that I am a bear with a sore head when it comes to sleep. I need a clear 8 hours uninterupted to function. I was very cleart to Ganzo on this point...if he waas to share my tent he must come to bed quietly and not wake me up.
So I was woken to the sound of raised Mongolian voices and the sound of a body hitting the floor twice,. I opened the tent and told Ganzo in no uncertain terms to get in there. He literally fell into the tent pissed out of his skull alledging that one of the drivers has assulted him. His story kept changing depending on what I said. I had, what seemed llike, a long talk with him and then fell asleep.
The next morning it transpired that what had happened was that Jess had taken Ganzo to the tent, one of the drivers had had a verbal go (the shouting that I heard) and then it seems that Ganzo might have fallen twice. Jess was stood outside the tent the whole time and heard everything! She thanked me for what I had done to contain the situation and asked me if I was alright. I siad yes.
The outcome of all however is that it brought the drivers and I closer, so it was a good thing.
so I am now tierd and will fill you all in on the nest instalment later. I'm also going out with some guys from the Guest House so I'll have to get myself all spruce moose.
Love you all and will write again soon.
X X X

After 18 days, a post. (All out of order, it's being writen just as it comes to mind)

So I'm back to civilisation and hating it. I've been back in UB since yesterday afternoon and I'm finding it very hard to adjust. I've met some amazing poeple and had experiences beyond my wildest imagination and now I havae to face the fact that it's all over. This country has been an amazing find, all the people (both western and Mongolian) who have traveled this road with me have made this trip. But before I go completely off on a tangent I'll write some more aabout what I've done and where I've been.
First it has to be the mini Nadaam and singing to the mountains. Our first camp site was incredable. It was the Gobi but we were situated in these rocky out croppings that were just beautiful. National Nadaam is takes place the 11-13 of July but many other Nadaams take place around the country in the weeks afterwards. I was very privilidged to see two local Nadaams and to sing to honour the mountains. FOr people who don't know singing is a great part of the Moongolian culture. When the kids are sent out with the herds they sing to keep themselves ocupied, the Mongolians sing when they are happy...if I had to give them a title it would be the people of song, so for me to sing to the group and to honour the mountains was a big thing. The Gobi is a semi desert with only three percent of it as sand dunes. I will always remember the coulores, pastle greens roling away into soft pinks, purples and oranges as far as the eye could see. Beautiful massifs with verigated red and brown folds on the horizon, tempratures of 35 plus. Our first stop in the Gobi (which is the Mongolian word for desert) was the Yolyn Am Valley in the Three Beauties National park. The Three Beauties was created at the same time as the Himilares and are the result of the aftershocks of the conlilsion of the Indian and Eurasian subcontinants. They could be called the baby foothills of the Himilares. I have found several explinations for the name Yolyn Am but the one I like most is the Vultures Mouth. It is the most amazing valley which has ice in it almost year round. Most of the ice had melted by the time we got there but it was still incredable to see pack ice in the desert and be out of the searing heat! The Valley/gorge itself was also beautiful and the on walk down we saw the Mongolian Horse and Yak ( a frequent sight later on in the trip). I was wearing my sandals which are not good climbing shoes so I took them off and climbed the Yolyn Am in bare feet. From the start I got a reputation as an excentric! Just as I remeber it said in the itinarery that we would be going down to Yolyn Am all in the one day but Jess decided it was to much so we camped in the desert, got rained on and had a lightening show! I got dehydrated at Yolyn Am (not a good experience) so when we got to camp Jess made me drink two cups of water and a cup of tea...It felt good to be finally rehydrated and I didn't have a repeat attack.
While on the way to Yolyn Am, the drivers decided they were going to have a mini Mongol Rally. We were going up to 100 KPH on some of the worst roads you've ever seen, flying over humps and bumps in Russian trucks with no seatbelts but boy was it good!! After a week in UB the open road was amazing, the freedom and thrills to be found with no speed limits and no other traffic as far as the eye could see, Bliss. Sophie and dad, you would love the off roading in this country...it's mad!!!!!!!!!
So After Yolyn Am, we camped in the Three Beauties. What I love about this country is that you can pull up virtualy anywhere and pitch camp. There are no designated camp site, you just go where ever the wind takes you. There I saw lots of wild Gobi Hampster. I don't know why but these incredably cute wee besties just made me squeal with delight. I suppose having kept hampster as a child it reminded me of all the fun times that these little things can bring. We were camped along a stream and the hampster came to the water to drink, fab!
After two nights in various locations in the Three Beauties we moved onto Hongren Ells (The singing dunes) and Bayanzag (The flaming cliffs.) Both were incredable for different reasons. At Bayanzag it was the water fight (insitgated by Dowaa and the Drivers!) and at Hongren Ells it was the camel ride to the base of the dunes, Basenhor's singing and the Ger home stay. Unfortunately I had managed to get grit and suncream in my eye so I retired to bed early but there is a hilarious photo of me with tea running down my face taking the tea bag cure to the nth degree!
Sorry to interupt this narative but I am so aware I have to go and pick up my passport so I will continue when I get back. I still have so much to tell you all, I can't wait!
X X X

The new guard is in town.

So, so....Trying to think of what to write. Nothing mush has happened in thee last couple of days really....I've just kicked my heels in UB trying to figure out if I'm coming or going. The old guard is gone and the new has come....it's a huge group! 15 for two weeks that spit off into 9 for the rest of the trip. I really wish all of you were her just so I could share the awesomeness of this incredible country with you. I would say that Mongolia is an experience, the power of Spirit and history that I have felt in this country can't be described....you have to to be here to know what makes Mongolia so amazing. I thought Egypt was indescribable but truly this place is something else. Only 2.7 million people in a country the size of western Europe, 45% of whom still live in the traditional nomadic/semi nomadic style...heaven. Also when you look at a map of the Mongolian Empire at the time Kubilai Khan it blows you away. With the exception of western Europe, India and some Middle Eastern states...the map belongs to the Mongols. Also the resurgent nationalism, and I don't mean that in the negative way, after the crushing Communist years is a joy to behold. The Mongols have great pride in being Mongolian and , even though there are as many as 20 different elasticities with in Mongolia, they see themselves as Mongols first, the Kazakh etc. I'll have one chance to use the net on the road so I'll try to put in as much as I can but I'll be keeping a paper based journal of my time on the road so you won't miss out. I hope that my blog may have inspired you to come and visit this awesom country...it's well worth the trip.
X

Dude what a country, Mk 2

So after that amazing first day in the cuds we woke up to the most beautiful weather. Jess had seen the hawk the night before and had putt scraps out for it so we watched it wheel and dive....it was awesome. We had breakfast by the banks of the Tuul then the days was our to do with what we wanted. Tess, Rob, Belinda and myself decided we were going to climb a hill. I'll show you the photos when I get home but this hill didn't look to far away so we set off. 3/4 of a hour later we finally reached it's base. The flora in this country is amazing...the stretch of steppe going up to the hill looked like an alpine meadow. The profousion of colours was intense, yellows, pinks, blues, purple not to mention the fact that everytime you took a step a profusion of butterflies scatter before you making it look like something out of a Disney movie. I have to say I was a bit of a flake, there was a gentle incline to the tree line and the really knackered me out just doing that so I climbed to the top of the tree line and let the guys go on the rest of the way. I'm finding that my PVFS is rearing its ugly head again and I don't want to push myself to far because it's not worth being laid up in bed for a week. Anyway the guys left me there and continued their assault on the 'Mountain'. I have some of the most amazing photos of the Tuul and the forest covered hills just from the tree line. When we got back we relaxed for the afternoon. I went and slept and then we had dinner. Jess is the most amazing cook. I don't know if I have a picture of it but the cooker looks like a a blow torch that is aim towards the pan. Apparently it uses a very fine stream of petrol that is ignitied to provided the flame. I'll def get a picture of it on the 18 dayer. (Just working it out I think I'm doing twenty one days, can anyone confirm?). Robert lit the most amazing campfire but everyone fell into bed around 9-10ish most nights.
The next morning it had been decided that we would leave a bit earlier so that people who were flying out could do things in UB instead. So we struck camp and went for breakfast and got under way at ten as arranged the night before. Unfortunately we didn't actualy manage to really leave the campsite until about 11/11.30. Bless him Mordchick, one of the drivers, manged to go through a puddle (baring in mind this is Mongolia a puddle maybe a slight case of understatement!) on completely the wrong side and got himself bogged down in the mud. Sods law Turo, the lead driver, had forgotten to bring the wire tow rope with him! (For the first time and it was the first time that it was needed) so began a dash between gers to find a suitable rope. In the end, thanks to some amazing Mongolian ingenuity, the van was finally freed and we went on our merry way, stopping for lunch in the most amazing location before making it back to UB for about 3.30. In the end Belinda and Rob managed to get to the throat singing, Theresa was very sweet and palled along with me to do some shopping, evening lending me the money to get my Del. (I cant ait to show it to you, it's the most beautiful purple!). After we met up for final drinks Theresa and Greg went to the airport, the next day it was the turn of Belinda and Rob, last night it was Robert and this morning Harry and Brian. So one amazing journey has ended for another one to start. I go on monday and I don't know how often I'll get to write my blog on the road but I'll keep a paper based copy and write up as much as I can when I get back to UB.
X X X

Dude, what a country.

Well as you may have geussed from my last post I have just spent two days in Khenti province, relaxing by the Tuul river, camping and not doing mucj else. This was an awesome first taste of what to expect from the next 18 day.
To start from the very begining we left UB at about half eight to trek into the country. Jess didn't know where we would end up but knew that it would be in Khenti somewhere. The reason she didn't want to take us to Terelj is that it was far too touristy (wether that was Mongolians or Westerners or both I couldn't quiet make out) but I think she made the right descion. We stopped at a forty fioot high, brushed steel statue of Chinggis and climb to the mane of the horse where we had awesome views of Kheti province, I won't try to explain what it looked like now rather I'll let the photos speak for themselves, then we drove on. Later we stopped at a ger to ask for directions to the river and we were all invited in. We were given Airag, fermented mares milk, and were given permission to take photos. Airag is best describe as thin, slightly fizzy natural yoghurt...it's definately an aquired taste but the Mongolian hospitality is beyond reproach. Then we drove on to our campsite. Surficed to say it was the most amazing plce, we camped right on the banks of the Tuul with forest steppe, reaching right up the hills, before and behind us. A hawk circled above our camp and, although it is comman to see them, I took it to be a blessing. We enjoyed a simple meal of curried vegatables, rice and beef stew before sitting round the fire and finally retiring to bed.
It's late here so I'm going to sign off with lots of hugs and kisses and fill you in on the erest tomorrow.
X X X X

Apologies.

Hey Guys,
Sorry nothing new to report (that's a lie!) but the last two days have been manic and I need sometime to get my head around all the beautiful craziness that has been going on. I'm fine so please don't worry...I'm off to Khenti, not Terelj as published, tomorrow for a couple of days so this will be my last post for awhile. I hope you guys are doing great back in UK. I'm loving Moongolia, the people and the spirit of the place are superb...I'll definately be coming back...I wish you all could be feeling and experiencing what I am, it's a very heart filled experience.
Love to all.
X X X

Nadaam day two. (12-07-09)

Today was an interesting day on many counts not least because we got woken up at about 1/1.30 in the morning by some drunk Mongolians hammering on the door! That didn't put me a good mood as we are off to the horse racing the at 6.30. But it was ok we got there on time and went off to join the madness that is race day out on the Steppe. After being briefed a bit by Jess we went on our way to find food etc. The horse race takes place over a 25KM course and it is to test the strength of the horse...not the jockey. The jockeys in this case were children as they are lighter. It was amazing to see so many Mongolians on horses. Many had come in from the country side to see this and it was clear to me why they are known as The Lords of the Horse. As I posted in my entry about the opening ceremony, there is an incredable synergy between horse and rider which is just such a joy to behold. The horse is considered the spirt of Mongolia and is revered in art amongst many other things. We pottered around the ger encampment, found food, did a little shopping and the went to take our places by the finish lline to see the horses come in. It was great for the first 20 or so minutes and then the crowds started to rush in. I was with Rob, Robert, Belinda and Brian and thank god because the railings we were leaning against had started to cant at an alarming angle. In the end we just had to push our way back through the crowd to escape the mounting pressure at our backs. We all made it out safely but I was serverly shaken. (Hence why I couldn't face the Nadaam closing seremony and watched it on the TV). We also found out that one of our party had been knocked unconscious by a drunk horse manwho realised he was going to miss the start of the race and so cantered down to line and just barreled into him. He's a lovely southern gent called Harry who is 84 and has a quadruple heart bypass two years before. Luckily, after a long saga, they managed to get him to the hospital and he was back with us at six. However we didn't let it ruin our day. After we had regrouped and got our collective breathes back we went to the cultural Nadaam where I got to shoot a Mongolian Recurve. It was hideous!! My arrows veered off to the right and didn't fly very far but I shot a recurve!! Job done! I have a couple of photos, it's awesome to be able to say I shot the bow of the Lords of War!
On a total side not what I was saying about the Mongolians not being very attractive is utter crap both the men and women are amongst some of the most beautiful I've seen. They range from pale skin and hair through to dark sking and hair. I could definately become a Mongolia wife.
Anyway I've tied up the net for far to long and it's been a long day. Off to Khenti tomorrow, not Trelj, so I'll love youa nd leave you. Please let me know how you're all getting on it would be good to get some news.
X X X X X X

Nadaam day one. (11-07-09)

Well what can I say about Nadaam? We went to the opening ceremony today and it is was mind blowing. You can feel the heartbeat of the people running throughout this festival.After the Communist suppression and purges of the last 50 years (where even the name of Chinngis was banned) it was amazing to witness the great out pouring of National pride that is Nadaam. What really touched me is the fact that the Mongolians are take such pride in who they are, it seems to be inate and I think they have a lot to be proud of.
The opening ceremony weas fantastic. There were traditional dancers, a speech from the President (I got shoved, very heavy handedly, out of the way by his body guard!) and my most favourite part...the horses! Now anyone who knows me will tell you that I find horses very frightening but the synergy between man and beast and the AWESOME!!!! formation riding proved why these guys are known as Lords of the Horse. After the state banner was brought in and planted, the horse display started. It involved a rider dressed as Chinngis (Chinngis in Ghengis' Mongolian pronounciation, the other is Persian) who actualy got his horse to bow to the state banner! Then you also had the acrobatics display on the back of the horses.
I have to say Nadaam is a feeling. I could sit here and try for a hundered years, using a billions words, t describe it but it is experiential. The wrestling was quite unlike anything I have ever seen. It is very definately a game of strategy over brute strength. Jess (our tour leader) says that some people find it boring, but the incredable nuances make it fascinating to watch. Apparently last years final bout went on for two hours! The one before, four so they've had to put a cap on the time a final is allowed to go on.
The we moved onto the archery. There are so many things I love about this sport...but the most incredible thing is to look at the bow stock when it's not strung, it's straight! The tension from the string gives it classic, and beautiful, recurve shape.
The anklebone shooting was also something else. It is a sport where sheep, or goat, anklebones are flicked at a target. From what I could see you have three competitors that take it in yurns to "shoot" there bones off a polished wooden palett, who ever hits the target wins the round.
After that we came back to UB geusthouse to sleep, relax, whatever and then Rob, Robert, Brian, Bellinda, Tess and myself went out for dinner. We went back to Cafe Amsterdam and had a great laugh. Then we went on to the Budwiser bar to meet up with Jess and the rest a the crew to have a relax and drink before the fireworkers over Sukhbataar square. The fireworkers were awesome, where they were set off over the hills outside UB the sight lines were perfect, you didn't get a crick in your neck. Then off to be for an early start to day two of Nadaam...the horse racing.

First Impressions.

Well this is going to be a shortish first blog from UB as I meet my organised tour in about half an hour but what a crazy day!
I met up with some lovely people from my tour last night (Theresa from Brum, Roberet from Aus and Brian from the States), who have been absoluetly superb and taken me under their collective wings. We're all sharing a dorm in the UB Guesthouse.
This morning we spent half an hour looking for somewhere to eat breakfast, however everywhere was closed. Finally, after accosting a local taxi driver for info, we managed to find a place called "The Cafe Amsterdam", where we had breakfast and a chat. Then we decided to see if there was anything going on at the Naadam Stadium so took a walk up there...there wasn't so we came back. I had mentioned how I wanted to go and see some traditional Mongolian throat sing while I was here and Theresa spotted a sighn. We walked around a beautiful Budhist temple complex rhat had become a museum and then took our seats for the performance. For thoes of you who have never heard, Mongolian throat singing is indescribable but it is worth trying to find some. The sound is so haunting and bizzare but incredable. Then we went out for luch. It's funny it feels like the four of us have been kicking around together a lot longer than a day...that has to bee a good sighn.

Bloging from Korea.

Well what can I say? I've arrived safely at Incheon international airport in Korea and have four hours to kill before my two hour onward flight to UB. From my short time here, and only the view from the pane and the airport, has convinced me that Korea proper is well worth a visit. Just to give you a flavour they have a Korean cultural centre in the airport where you can paint fans, listen to traditional music and shop for traditional handcrafted jewlery. The music even was free as is my internet access, it cost me the price of a mocha ($4 US). Not bad eh? The Koreans themselves are lovely people, very smiley and helpful as was a lovely Japanese man I sat next to on the plane. IT's amazing how human kindness trancends barriers of language, race etc, I have a feeling my over riding memory of my holiday will be the kindness of strangers. It's been a funny old experience so far. I was absoulutely comatosed on the plane from Heathrow (Thank God!!) in and out like the hockey coceky. I THnk it's about 8 o'clock UK time but I can't be sure. I did also want to phone home (had a total ET moment) but couldn't work out how to procure a phone card so Mum and Dad I'll be emailing you quickly just to let you know everything is kosher. Oh and most imporatanly of all Korea is a civilised country...there are smoking rooms in the airport!!! It's definately worth coming back for a better look.

D-day.

So the day is here at last and I can't wait. THis will be the last blog posted from sunny old UK and I can't wait. Reading my travel guide it seems that there are lots of net cafes in Mongolia, so opefuly I'll be able to update all my faithful readers a bit. I also have trusty paper and pen so everything that doesn't go up on the blog will be noted down, filed away and post at some stage of my exsistance.
I have about seven hours and forty minutes left before I take flight and I can't wait!! It's like being a kid at christmas and closing your eys, hoping that when you open them Santa will have been. I've never wished hours of my life away so much. I guess I should find something more constructive to do but you know what it's like.
Love and hugs to all and see you when I get back in August.
X X X X

Photos

I found this awesome blog if anyone wants to see photos of the places I'm going.

http://danny.oz.au/travel/mongolia/

My itinary. (for thoes who didn't get the e-mail)

Download the original attachment
Itinerary
Naadam.
DAY 1 - ULAAN BAATAR (10.07.09)
Arrival day.
Arrive and check into your guesthouse. Later this evening you will have the chance to meet your tour leader and the other members of the tour.
Ulaan Baatar Ulaan Baatar (or UB) is the gateway between new and old in Mongolia. One third of the population live here and as more foreign investment comes in, the old Soviet influenced buildings are starting to be dwarfed by new office and apartment blocks while the Russian vans are starting to be out numbered by new Japanese imports. But still in the middle of this developing city many people still ride their horses to their local market and the traditional “Del” is still proudly worn.
There are a number of important and impressive sights, in particular the Ganden Monastery, which currently supports a population of almost 200 monks, and the black market where local traders sell everything from gas masks to Ger parts.
Ulaan Baatar has some impressive museums. Depending on your taste, perhaps visit the dinosaurs at the Natural History museum, the museum of Fine Arts or learn about the communist purges at the Victims of Persecution Memorial Museum.
Drinking is a popular Mongolian pastime and with 1 bar or night club for every 850 citizens, you have no trouble in finding a place to relax in the evening sampling a few local brews or of course Vodka. The Cultural show in Nairamdal Park is well worth seeing, and hearing. Check with your tour leader for latest details about the days of operation and timings.

DAY 2 - ULAAN BAATAR - NAADAM FESTIVAL (11.07.09)
Opening ceremony, horse racing and archery.
Nadaam Festival Naadam is Mongolia's biggest festival, a summer fair featuring traditional sports, foods, and folk dancing. The festivities take place in nearly all provincial capitals, but the event is liveliest in the national capital, Ulaan Baatar.
As you might expect of a people who produced Genghis Khan, the festival is dominated by warrior-type activities, including the Eryn Gurvan Nadom, or Three Manly Sports: wrestling, archery, and horse racing.
The wrestling is quite different from western versions of the sport with contestants clad in tight briefs and a vest that covers the shoulders and upper arms leaving the chest bare. This outfit is worn to make it clear that both contestants are indeed men, a tradition dating back to the discovery, many centuries ago, that a champion wrestler was in fact a woman (to the great embarrassment of the men she had defeated). The wrestlers first swoop into the ring in imitation of the Garuda bird of Buddhist lore. When the referee signals the start, each tries to topple the other; the first to touch the ground with anything more than the soles of his feet loses. Then the loser must kneel while the winner makes a victory sign over his head.
Both women and men compete in the archery events, using short compound bows (which may have been invented by the Mongolians). Dell-clad competitors shoot at traditional leather targets stacked in piles. Points are scored for each target knocked down by a direct hit (no deflections!). The judges stand incredibly close to the targets, seemingly without ever the slightest concern for their own safety.
Mongolian horse racing is similar to a western steeplechase, conducted over a cross-country course at least 20 km/12 miles long. There are races for all riders and both sexes, but the crowd-pleaser is the children's division. In rural Mongolia, most children begin to ride in infancy, and their almost instinctive skill in horsemanship is clearly apparent. The children's race features boys and girls aged 7-12, wearing colourful traditional costumes.
Other horse races include blindfolded scrambles (by adults). Mongolia's resurgent nationalism combines with cash prizes to inspire vigorous competition. Symbols of Genghis Khan are everywhere. Warriors kneel and kiss a braided horsetail dedicated to him, and a white Genghis figure rides around the stadium mounted on a horse.
DAY 3 - ULAAN BAATAR - NAADAM FESTIVAL (12.07.09)
Wrestling knockout tournament, building up to the dramatic finale. Closing ceremony.
DAY 4 - ULAAN BAATAR(13.07.09)
A full free day
DAY 5 – TERELJ (14.07.09)
A short drive to Terelj National Park. Optional hikes or rides around the magnificent countryside.
Terelj This lovely area is located within the Gorkhi Terelj National Park and used to be one of the communist party’s summer camps, due both to its beauty and its proximity to Ulaan Baatar. It lies at an altitude of about 1,600m and is situated in the Baga Khentii Mountain range.
Although the main body of the park sees quite a few tourists, it only takes a short walk to get far off the beaten track and into the heart of the park. We have plenty of time to explore the area – climb a mountain to get a fantastic view over this enormous wilderness area, hire a horse, meet some local nomadic families or perhaps find a beautiful and secluded spot on the edge of one of the rivers running through the park and spend your time relaxing. In the summer the mountains are covered with wild flowers.
There are also many strange rock formations in the park, such as ‘Tortoise Rock’, a reptile-shaped rock formation created by an ancient glacier which you can climb right inside.
DAY 6 – TERELJ (15.07.09)
A full free day for more optional activities.
DAY 7 - ULAAN BAATAR (16.07.09)
Return to Ulaan Baatar
DAY 8 - ULAAN BAATAR (17.07.09)
Tour ends.
Itinerary
Mongolian Wilderness Aventure.
DAY 1 - ULAAN BAATAR (18.07.09)
DAY 2 - ULAAN BAATAR (19.07.09)
A full free day to explore the capital city of Mongolia. Perhaps visit the Gandan monastery and the Winter Palace.
DAY 3 - GOBI DESERT – MANDALGOVI (20.07.09)
Drive south through the Gobi to Mandalgovi. Approx. 8 hours driving
Gobi Desert Today we make our way south leaving the paved roads behind, making full use of our Russian 4WDs as we head through the famous Mongolian steppe. En-route we will see local nomads, get our first look at the traditional 'Ger' lifestyle and see a few Bactrian (two-humped) camels. The steppe also provides great bird watching opportunities and migratory birds, falcons and eagles seem to barely notice our presence as we pass by. We pitch our tents in Baga Gazin Chuluu 40km north of Mandalgovi, a designated scenic spot filled with amazing rock formations both in colour and size.
DAY 4 - YOLYN AM VALLEY (21.07.09)
Continue south to Yolyn Am or ‘Vulture’s Mouth’, located in the 'Three Beauties' National Park. Approx. 11 hours driving
Gobi Desert Today we get a real taste for the Gobi as, leaving the grasslands behind, we head into this great desert. We make our way through outpost Sum’s (towns) and Dalanzadgad - an Aimag (regional administrative centre) - before continuing to the Yolyn Am National Park. We spend the night in a nearby valley.
DAY 5 - GOBI DESERT (22.07.09)
Hike through the valley to reach the ice that remains there year-round. We then drive to the west.
Yolyn Am In the heart of the Gobi desert lies Yolyn Am, a lovely green valley where you may spot wild sheep and goats. We walk through the valley and reach the beautiful ‘Vultures Mouth’, an extraordinary phenomenon. Compressed snow remains here, year round, despite the heat in the surrounding valleys. As we walk we may see wild ibex on the cliffs above us.
DAY 6 - GOBI DESERT (23.07.09)
We continue to Khongoryn Els and have the rest of the day free to explore these amazing sand dunes. Perhaps take a camel ride in the afternoon and climb the dunes for a memorable sunset.
Khongoryn Els As we drive towards Khongoryn Els we may see herds of white tail gazelle on the plain. Khongoryn Els is a very impressive site of sand dunes that is 180km long with some of the peaks reaching 300m high. On arrival you can climb one of these dunes to get one of the most beautiful views in Mongolia.
DAY 7 - ONGI RIVER (24.07.09)
Drive north towards the Ongi River, a clear stream that runs through a barren rocky landscape. Our route allows a quick stop at Bayanzag. Approx. 7 hours driving
Bayanzag Today we head north through the desert. Initially our route takes us through the Gobi Gorong Saikhan Mountains, following a narrow valley where we may catch glimpses of the wild Argali sheep. We then continue on through stark but beautiful landscapes, and may spot gazelle on the way. Bayanzag is commonly known as the ‘flaming cliffs’ and is famous for the number of dinosaur eggs and fossils which have been found here.
Ongi River We spend the night near Ongi River, a small shallow river which cuts its way through red rock mountains. Nearby are the remains of a large monastery that was completely destroyed in the 1930s. Only some mud brick walls and broken pieces of pottery indicate that there was ever anything here. This will also be our first chance to wash the dust off since leaving UB.
DAY 8 - KHOGNO KHAN MOUNTAINS (25.07.09)
Drive to the beautiful Khogno Khan Mountains, a massive series of rocky hills that rise up out of an otherwise flat landscape. Approx. 7 hours driving
Khogno Khan Today we see a dramatic change in the landscape with the harsh rocky land giving way to rolling grasslands. Khogno Khan is an impressive massif, which rises up out of the plain and contains a number of beautiful springs. Hiking up into the mountains we have incredible views over the plains and grasslands.

DAY 9 - KHOGNO KHAN MOUNTAINS (26.07.09)
A full day to explore the nearby monastery and the mountains.
DAY 10 - KARAKORUM - ORKON RIVER (27.07.09)
A short drive takes us to Karakorum, the ancient capital built by Genghis Khan in the 13th century. We visit the magnificent Erdene Zuu monastery. Approx. 5 hours driving
Karakorum Today we visit the Erdene Zuu monastery, the first centre of Lamaism (Tibetan Buddhism) in Mongolia. Building started in 1586 and continued for the next three centuries. In its heyday the complex contained 62 temples and housed up to one thousand monks. Tragically, most temples were destroyed during the communist period but three remain standing and are sufficient to evoke some idea of how impressive it must have once been. The monastery is situated near Kharkorin. It was here that Genghis Khan built the capital of his empire, Karakorum, in 1220 but this was completely sacked and destroyed in later centuries. We spend the night amongst the trees next to the Orkon River.
DAY 11 – KHORG (28.07.09)
We drive to the White Lake, ringed by stark, volcanic mountains. We make several stops at interesting features. Approx. 7 hours driving
White Lake This volcanic lake is one of the most stunning and dramatic in all of Mongolia. It positively teems with hungry pike, making for some of the best fishing of the trip. En route to the lake, we pass through a strange landscape littered with black volcanic rock. The lake itself is ringed on all sides by large hills (hike to the top for some wonderful views over the lake and beyond) and topped by an extinct volcano - Khorg.
DAY 12 – KHORG (29.07.09)
A full day to relax at the lake. Wander along the shore line or hike up into the mountains for awesome views of this inhospitable terrain.
DAY 13 - EN ROUTE TO KHOVSGOL (30.07.09)
Drive north through alpine scenery, crossing 3 mountains, on our way towards Lake Khovsgol. We pass herds of Mongolian horses and spend the night near the Moron River. Approx. 10 hours driving
DAY 14 – KHOVSGOL (31.07.09)
We make a short stop at the town of Moron before continuing to Lake Khovsgol, a magnificent clear blue lake on the Siberian border. We stay near the banks of the lake. Approx. 6 hours driving
Lake Khovsgol We continue north through the steppe to the provincial capital Moron. It is a small dusty town with a lively market, and after re-supplying with provisions, we once again head north. The landscape initially becomes more arid and rocky but later we drive through pine forest before getting our first glimpse of the magnificent Lake Khovsgol. The lake is 2,760 square km, surrounded by mountains and contains water is so pure that you can drink it. It is without any doubt the scenic highlight of Mongolia and we have two full free days to explore the area. You can either relax on the lakeside, enjoying stunning views, or trek into the surrounding hills either by foot or on horseback.
DAY 15 TO DAY 16 – KHOVSGOL (1.08.09/2.08.09)
Two full free days to hike around the lake or just relax and enjoy the views.
DAY 17 - SELENGE RIVER (3.08.09)
We drive south to the Selenge River, one of the most lush and beautiful parts of Mongolia. Approx. 8 hours driving
Selenge River Leaving Lake Khovsgol behind, we spend the day driving through spectacular scenery to the beautiful Selenge River. This is Mongolia’s largest river in terms of water volume, and it eventually empties into Lake Baikal in Siberia.
DAY 18 - ORKON RIVER (4.08.09)
We continue south and east, stopping at the Orkon River again, only further downstream. Approx. 9 hours driving
DAY 19 - TUUL RIVER (5.08.09)
We drive on to our final picturesque camp spot. By this stage you may be missing some creature comforts. Don't wish your time away. You should savour this last day of true wilderness experience.
DAY 20 - ULAAN BAATAR (6.08.09)
Drive back through the grasslands to Ulaan Baatar. Approx. 2 hours driving.
DAY 21 - ULAAN BAATAR (7.08.09)
Tour ends.
I then have three days on my own in UB to relax and collect my thoughts before flying home on the 10th.

A pep in my step.

Talking to Stuart has given me a really sense of awe at the journey I'm about to undertake. BecauseI've spent soooooooooooo long in the planning (two years), the idea of it being a relaxing, awesome experience has been lost somewhere a long the line. Hearing Stuart tell me how lucky I am to be undertaking this awesome adventure really put it back into perspective. He was telling me about som Mac software he has that features pictures from Naadam, the rush of coulors, the excitement and how lucky I was to be going. To hear it put like that really turned my head. How lucky am I? So a lot of time and hard work has been put into this trip and I've had some truely shocking work to pay for it (Bingham news anyone?) but, in real terms, what I'll gain will far outway any stress or hassle in getting there. I'm very lucky and privilidge to be going to this incredible country full of incredible people and experiences and I can't wait to go.

34 hours to go...not that I'm counting.

So as the title says only 34 hours left. Do I feel ready? Sort of. I find holidays funny things. I panick and stress like buggery before them and then really love them.
I think what hasn't helped is cutting myself so short on time. On moment I had six weeks to get everything done, the next just one. But I have eveything packed and ready to go apart from sunglasses, camera, book/s and journal. So I'm not doing to badly. I tend to find that it's the little thinhgs that ambush you with traveling. Things like cameras, batteries etc, wooly hats with ear flaps. You just stuff the last big item into your rucksack and then all these smaller things run out of the corners, laugh at you and demand to be packed. But I have everything I need, the rest are just luxuries. I can always buy a gossip mag or two to keep me entertained in Seoul airport for four hours, they don't take u much space and are easily disposable.
So back to the original question, do I feel ready? Yes as much as you can be for a month abroad and baby am I looking forward to flying!

Less than a week to go.

Well with just 6 days to go before I'm off to the cuds, I'm feeling ok. I did a trial pack on tuesday and got everything in my 50 lt Bergen (Thanks Stu X) but of course I now have a bag of medicines that I have to find someway of fitting in! (Roll eyes) but it's cool. i have also taken out far to much travel money but at least I can change that back.
Am I looking forward to my trip? Totaly What I'm not looking forward to is going into work! :( I could now just dow with a bit of time off to meet up with friends before I fly out, but the legendary greenback has always got to come first!
How's this for a bizzare, random factoid....dollars straight from the US federal reserve bank look and smell just like monopoly money!
And on that bombshell (as th TOp Gear guy would say) it's time to say good night....good night.

Two weeks to go!

I can't believe I've left it so late!! I'm scared now, what between Issy's christening, Paris and work I've cut it down to the wire...but that's half the fun. (Try telling my frayed nerves that!) I've just been on a mamoth shopping trip and spent about 200 squids on clothes for my jaunt and I still have kit to go. Tomorrow I'm off to Bournemouth to sort out my spending money and get myself another pair of Craghoppers Kiwi Zip Offs. (A most amazing pair of trousers that zip off just above the knee to become shorts...perfect for the desert.) I also have to get person care kit, bio-degradeable soap/shampoo, walking boots, socks and then do a trial pack, panic and realise it won't all fit in, junk half the stuff and realise it still won't fit in, give up, cry start again,get it all to fit and wonder what all the fuss was about....isn't traveling fun? I'm also working right up until the last moment....how am I supposed to concentrate on work when I'm counting down the seconds until I can close the door, heft my ruksack and my shoulder and blow the joint?!? Bring on the 8th of July!! I'm ready and waiting!

Mongolian Wilderness adventure.

Hi all,
Rather than trying to send a million emails I thought I'd set up a blog to let you all know how everything is going in Mongolia. I don't know how much time, or internet access I'll have out in the cuds (as Ewan and Charlie called thee wilderness) but when I can I'll post what I can. I hope that I might be able to post some stuff on my last two days in UB just to give you all a flavour of what I've been up to. In the meantime I'll be enjoying my holiday.
Lots of lov,
La
X X X X